Sardinia, in passing

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AGRITURISMOS do not tend to emerge like mushrooms overnight. The Saltara opened in its present guide in 1993 – more restaurant with bungalows than agriturismo really, but has four generations of farming behind it and an iconic photograph of grandpa still oversees procedures. Their standout focus is the suckling pig – six of which no less adorn the hearth as you arrive – 26 euros with potatoes or as part of a large-scale four course set menu 90 euros.

Natalia and Gian Mario have presided for all that time and it shows – a very hospitable place with excellent service, lovely old school dining room or the courtyard in summer.

SHOULD you want to buy a serious restaurant, then you might do worse than this one. IMG_1650

It is four or five kilometres from the nearest houses but a few yachts pass by the cove. It has an unsurpassable panorama –  the sea on one side, mountains on the other. Not surprisingly it specializes in seafood and some local dishes, no pasta for some reason:

They have just opened a sushi bar in the nearby seaside resort of La Calletta.

The street art struck me. The lady in the wall is in fact the owner of her own agriturismo which is a clever, personal touch;

The painted stones were used as table numbers at Zia Luchi on the front at Santa Lucia, a small, modest caffe but keeping up the fine traditions with these fregola dishes which deserve mention, the basic with vongole, the second more elaborate – in the fancy violet plate –  with mixed seafood. Both were 13 euros.

I wish I had taken a photograph too of La Coccinella in Ozieri which is just a bar towards the top of the hill round from the car park. There is no menu. He is proud of his pasta and he has fresh fish and a regard for tradition. You would not go there unless you were passing through Ozieri but if you do you will appreciate the note and they will appreciate you too.

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