I was fortunate enough to have a university level education in food in the 10 years I ran the Good Food Guide for the Consumer’s Association in London. I was also the Guardian restaurant critic for that time jostling for space on the women’s pages with the titans of feminism Jill Tweedie and Polly Toynbee. These pages are just a hobby and perhaps in a small way an extension of support for places I admire for what they do. I don’t take free meals and most of the time I am anonymous which is the best way to do it. If I am travelling I perhaps want a different kind of restaurant to what a local might want. For me a restaurant should be a part of its locality, so I like to eat Portuguese in Portugal, drink Pernod in France. And I prefer places where the owner is behind the bar.