Eataly, Liverpool street, London

SHOULD you live in the east, or that part that is connected via Liverpool Street Station, you may well soon be receiving parcels of fresh pasta, ciabbatta, bottles of sauce, wedges of Parmesan, a whole anti pasto from the salumeria.  Eataly is not just a big deli, it is a HUGE Walt Disney style experience of italiana gastronomica including wine shop, three restaurants scheduled soon, grazing, classes, tastings. It is a spaceship of produtti. You are being connected to the Italian countryside on a scale that is perhaps bigger than most Tescos, Far from being in the vanguard, London is actually the 43rd outlet of Oscar Farrinetti’s grand vision which he began in Turin in 2007 after touring that country commissioning producers of Slow Food. So this is the reverse of fast food, this is eating as in the last part of the agricultural process. Your money is being meaningfully spent. It helps of course that Italy regards itself as one of the homes of gastronomy, so everything here is joined up thinking, you will not go home and find yourself stocking for a nuclear bunker, you will not waste half the morning ready the labels for what is in your food. The point is, it is curated. It all fits. If there is mozzarella left over for tomorrow, no problem. If you have sauce, then there is pasta in the cupboard. Suddenly you are an Italian housewife. You are Ada Boni. You are Marcella Hazan. And if you don’t feel confident, there are classes, there are even children’s classes. And as a lot of the staff seem to be Italian, omg, if they don’t know what they are talking about…here is a picture of the sweet alley, which is a bit like a duty free for all things dolce…

Btw note to food producers UK, this is how it is done.


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